Addis Ababa, African Capital: Gastronomy, Culture and Markets
Merkato, Africa's Largest Market
Often described as the largest open-air market in sub-Saharan Africa, Addis Ababa's Merkato is a city within a city. This labyrinth of alleyways stretches over several blocks and brings together thousands of vendors selling absolutely everything: brightly coloured spices, unroasted coffee sold by the kilo, traditional shamma fabrics, silver jewellery, incense, kitchen utensils and even car parts. Each section of the market specialises in a particular type of merchandise, making navigation easier despite the sheer scale of the place. For travellers arriving from Bole Airport, Merkato is approximately 30 minutes by taxi. It is advisable to go early in the morning to avoid the crowds and to leave valuables at the hotel.
Injera, the Pillar of Ethiopian Gastronomy
It is impossible to visit Addis Ababa without tasting injera, the spongy, slightly tangy flatbread made from teff, a grain endemic to the Ethiopian highlands. Served on a large platter, injera acts as both plate and cutlery: diners tear off pieces of bread to scoop up the various stews arranged on top. Doro wot, a chicken stew simmered in a sauce of onions and berbere — a distinctly Ethiopian spice blend — is the quintessential national dish. Restaurants in the Bole district offer excellent dining, while small eateries in the city centre serve generous portions at very modest prices. On Fridays and fasting days, restaurants serve entirely vegetarian dishes, a delight for non-meat-eating travellers.
The African Union Headquarters and Meskel Square
Addis Ababa is nicknamed the 'diplomatic capital of Africa' as it has hosted the African Union headquarters since its founding in 1963, as well as the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa. The AU complex, whose new building gifted by China dominates the urban skyline, is open to visitors and houses an impressive conference centre. Nearby, Meskel Square is the beating heart of the city. This vast esplanade hosts the Meskel festival every September, a spectacular Orthodox celebration marked by a huge ceremonial bonfire. The rest of the year, the square serves as a gathering place, promenade and open-air concert venue.
Tips for Exploring Addis Ababa
Addis Ababa can be comfortably explored in three to four days. The light rail network, inaugurated in 2015, connects the south to the north and the east to the west of the city at minimal cost. The ubiquitous blue minibuses offer an economical alternative for short trips. For greater comfort, ride-hailing apps work perfectly throughout the city. The Bole district, situated between the airport and the centre, offers the best selection of hotels, restaurants and shops. Remember that Ethiopia uses its own calendar, seven to eight years behind the Gregorian calendar, and a time system offset by six hours. Always check whether times given are in 'Ethiopian time' or 'European time' to avoid misunderstandings.