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The Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony in Addis Ababa: Immersion in an Ancestral Tradition

Ethiopia, the Homeland of Coffee

Ethiopia holds a unique place in the global history of coffee. According to legend, it was a shepherd named Kaldi who, in the 9th century, observed his goats becoming particularly energetic after eating the red berries of a shrub. This discovery, born in the highlands of the Kaffa region, gave birth to the most consumed beverage on the planet. Today, coffee accounts for nearly 30% of Ethiopian exports and supports millions of families across the country. In Addis Ababa, this history is felt on every street corner, where the aroma of freshly roasted coffee fills the streets and markets.

The Coffee Ceremony Ritual

The Ethiopian coffee ceremony, called 'buna' in Amharic, is far more than a simple beverage preparation. It is a social ritual that can last one to two hours and typically takes place three times a day in Ethiopian households. The ceremony hostess begins by roasting green beans in a flat pan over hot coals. She then passes the smoking beans among the guests so they can appreciate the aroma. The beans are ground with a pestle in a wooden mortar before being brewed in a jebena, a narrow-necked clay coffee pot. The coffee is served in three successive rounds — abol, tona and baraka — each carrying increasing symbolic meaning. Incense burns throughout the ceremony, creating an atmosphere steeped in spirituality.

Where to Experience This in Addis Ababa

Travellers arriving at Bole Airport will find numerous places to participate in an authentic coffee ceremony. The Bole district, in the immediate vicinity of the airport, is full of traditional cafes where women in embroidered white dresses prepare 'buna' according to tradition. The Piazza district in the historic centre is home to Tomoca, one of the city's oldest and most renowned coffee houses, founded in the 1950s. For a more immersive experience, Merkato — sub-Saharan Africa's largest open-air market — offers the chance to see beans sorted, roasted and sold in a bustling atmosphere. Many hotels also organise ceremonies for their guests.

Bringing a Piece of Ethiopia Home

Before leaving Addis Ababa, coffee lovers should not miss visiting specialist shops to purchase quality Ethiopian coffee beans. The most prized varieties are Yirgacheffe, with its floral and citrus notes, Sidamo, fruitier in character, and Harrar, with intense and spicy aromas. Travellers can also bring back a clay jebena and a set of small handleless cups, the 'sini', to recreate the ceremony at home. Shops in the Bole district and at the airport offer gift sets perfectly packaged for air travel.